Ulysse Colin Pierrieres deg. 03/2020 2016

Robert Parker (über 2016): Revisiting the NV Blanc de Blancs Les Pierrières (2019 base), I was struck by just how remarkably well it is evolving post disgorgement and felt that my earlier assessment now appears almost conservative. As I have written before, it is the most chiseled and nakedly chalky of Ulysse Collin's mono-cépage bottlings, yet on this occasion, those attributes are complemented by huge concentration, enlivened by structuring dry extract and a pretty pinpoint mousse. Disgorged in February 2024 with a dosage of 1.7 grams per liter, it unfurls from the glass with a deep bouquet of citrus oil, blanched almonds and freshly baked bread mingled with smoke and struck flint. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, the palate combines crystalline purity with the texture and plenitude that only fully mature fruit can impart, culminating in a persistent, searingly saline finish. This is the finest release of this cuvée to date. It is not to be missed. 98+/100 (2026)