Keller Riesling Horizontale 2010 (3 Fl.)

Das Paket enthält je eine Flasche:
-Westhofener Abts-E Riesling Großes Gewächs 2010
-Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Großes Gewächs 2010
-G-Max Riesling 2010

Robert Parker (AbtsE): As Keller himself remarks, his 2010 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen - Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs illustrates the proclivity of Riesling from this amazing site (for more about which, consult Issues 192 and 185) to combine creaminess of texture with utmost energy and levity. Almond and white peach, lime and grapefruit are wreathed in iris, mint, and thyme. As this expansively saturates the palate and as it takes on air, suggestions of cardamom and nutmeg, nut oils and rowan add rich allure. Seductively scented and textured, irresistibly juicy and mouthwateringly saline, this buoyant beauty finishes transparent to a kaleidoscopic, kinetic array of floral, herbal, spice and mineral nuances. I expect it will remain compellingly exhilarating for at least a decade. 96/100

James Suckling (G-Max): Wide-screen nose with the complete spectrum of citrus-fruit aromas. Generous and juicy for the challenging vintage with a wonderful interplay of ripe acidity and a hint of bitterness with the concentrated fruit on the medium-bodied palate. Impressive power and freshness at the finish for a dry riesling that’s over a decade old. Black-tea character right at the end. Drink or hold. At the Keller G-Max vertical tasting. 96/100

Jancis Robinson (AbtsE): This was a real treat, but is still a baby. Wonderfully complex ripe fruit but still crystalline acidity. It touches gold medal quality! But great patience is needed. 19/20

Jancis Robinson (G-Max): Tasted blind. Per aspera ad astra – nothing could more aptly describe the progression of the G-Max 2010 than this trusty Latin proverb. A cool spring and rainy August did not bode well for the prospects of dry Riesling in this vintage. But the purity and refinement of this wine show that the danger of rot and a frightening level of acidity can be out-witted by meticulous selectivity and the courage to risk the longest possible hanging time. Theory has it that high levels of moisture in the soil bring a greater supply of minerals to the vines, and the extraordinary minerality of the G-Max 2010 certainly seems to confirm this hypothesis. Nuances of ripe citrus fruit and dried herbs set subtle accents without hogging the limelight, racy acidity takes care of the dynamic dimension. A bundle of energy with taut structure promises great ageing potential. 19/20

Vinum Wine Magazine (G-Max): Pure und tiefe, reife, konzentrierte Frucht, mit kreidestaubiger Note perfekt verwoben, die an saftige Ananas und getrocknete Aprikosen erinnernde Frucht ist herrlich reif und intensiv, dazu kommen kräuterige, an frischen Oregano erinnernde Noten, Kumquats und herbe Schokosplitter. Am Gaumen dicht und konzentriert, enorm mineralisch und rassig, elegantes Finish: die Quintessenz von Riesling. 19/20

Jancis Robinson (Pettenthal): The red slate of this vineyard produces a unique spicy aroma that is only inadequately described by a sprinkling of cinnamon on a sweet pink grapefruit. To me the Pettenthal certainly represents the softie among Keller's Grosse Gewächse, though the most delightful touch of bitter chocolate does put some contours into its profile. Acidity and minerality are administered with the gentlest of brush strokes. Very charming and graceful. 18/20