Keller G-MAX trocken 2010

Jancis Robinson: Tasted blind. Per aspera ad astra – nothing could more aptly describe the progression of the G-Max 2010 than this trusty Latin proverb. A cool spring and rainy August did not bode well for the prospects of dry Riesling in this vintage. But the purity and refinement of this wine show that the danger of rot and a frightening level of acidity can be out-witted by meticulous selectivity and the courage to risk the longest possible hanging time. Theory has it that high levels of moisture in the soil bring a greater supply of minerals to the vines, and the extraordinary minerality of the G-Max 2010 certainly seems to confirm this hypothesis. Nuances of ripe citrus fruit and dried herbs set subtle accents without hogging the limelight, racy acidity takes care of the dynamic dimension. A bundle of energy with taut structure promises great ageing potential. (19/20, 2018)

Vinum: Pure und tiefe, reife, konzentrierte Frucht, mit kreidestaubiger Note perfekt verwoben, die an saftige Ananas und getrocknete Aprikosen erinnernde Frucht ist herrlich reif und intensiv, dazu kommen kräuterige, an frischen Oregano erinnernde Noten, Kumquats und herbe Schokosplitter. Am Gaumen dicht und konzentriert, enorm mineralisch und rassig, elegantes Finish: die Quintessenz von Riesling. (19/20, 2013)

James Suckling: Wide-screen nose with the complete spectrum of citrus-fruit aromas. Generous and juicy for the challenging vintage with a wonderful interplay of ripe acidity and a hint of bitterness with the concentrated fruit on the medium-bodied palate. Impressive power and freshness at the finish for a dry riesling that’s over a decade old. Black-tea character right at the end. Drink or hold. At the Keller G-Max vertical tasting. (96/100, 2024)