Keller Hipping Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2011

Robert Parker: Bacon fat and wood smoke; peach, grapefruit and orange with pronounced piquancy of pit and rind, inform the nose and subtly oily palate of Keller's 2011 Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Grosses Gewachs, an immediately-recognizable expression of this famous red slate site. As in so many recent instances chez Keller, there is an impressive alliance of richness and overt extract with vivacity and energy. This finishes with admirable persistence and a sort of afterglow of distilled pit fruits. A bottle open for a day was even more impressive than one freshly-opened. It should be worth following for at least the better part of a decade. 92/100 (2013)

Jancis Robinsom: Big, broad and vital on the nose. Almost creamy. Very settled and big boned. Confident in its weight but not nervy – even though there is no shortage of acidity. Very firm structure. Some spice. But it finishes dry. It almost tastes as though it would prefer to be sweeter… Hint of gherkins and white pepper on the finish. 17,5/20 (2012)