Keller Hubacker Vertikale (2014-2016)(3 Fl.)

James Suckling zu 2016: Rich, generous and concentrated as Keller's wines from this site always are. The subtle earthy touch fits beautifully, and this carries the finish every bit as much as the acidity. 95/100

James Suckling zu 2015: A pinup for a dry riesling brimming with peach and citrus aromas; there's no denying the immediate appeal of this wine. There's considerable power, but nothing heavy or too obvious. The finish is long and quite firm (so this will age), but not tremendously complex. 93/100

Jancis Robinson zu 2016: Young wines never have it easy in vertical tastings, because seasoned tasters are not easily blinded by primary aromas, but the Hubacker manages to flatter even the most critical of noses with a pleasant fragrance of fresh herbs, melissa the most prominent of all. Living proof that fruit doesn’t always have to be the be all and end all of olfactory seduction, although a gentle whiff of local orchards does add to the attraction. Radiant acidity gives rise to high hopes for a long life expectancy, and in combination with the delightful herbal expression on the finish produces an exhilarating coolness on the palate. I have no doubt that in time further treasures will emerge from beneath the surface of primary and secondary aromas. 19/20

Jancis Robinson zu 2015: The glorious summer of 2015 led to high expectations among the wine-writing fraternity, and many a Grosses Gewächs showed eager to meet this anticipation with seduction by noticeable residual sugar. The Hubacker reflects the ripeness of the vintage with an attractive fragrance of lanolin, beeswax and floral aromas, but the palate does not bow to the temptation of luscious opulence and sweetness, rather it almost contrarily exhibits notes of crisp green fruit, subtle phenolic astringency and animating acidity. A firm structure will keep this wine in good shape for many years to come. 18,5/20

Jancis Robinson zu 2014: ‘Not typical for the Hubacker’, from the mouth of experts, does not have to be understood as a condemnation of the 2014 vintage, only as a declaration that the almost vegetal and green-peel aromas are different from the perceived Hubacker norm. The palate is nothing but consistent with this assessment, very taut and bordering onto the astringent. Compactness, structure and extract have set the scene for a fascinating development, but rather than ever becoming mainstream or the darling at dinner tables, this is far more likely to find cult status among the Riesling trocken purist hardcore. 18/20