Keller Abts-E Riesling Vertikale (2019, 2021, 2023)

James Suckling zu 2019: Why fret, why worry if you can drink this unbelievable wine? Mind-blowing nose of apricot, fresh pineapple and a thousand spices. Ravishing interplay of fruit, acidity, minerals and so much else that isn't easy to describe in a few measly words. The ultra long finish is so uplifting and utterly joyful. Drink or hold. 100/100

James Suckling zu 2021: It’s hard to find words for the astonishing depth and purity of this perfect dry riesling that is driven by the characteristically racy acidity of the vintage, but subsumes this into a seamless whole, the staggering herbal freshness exactly balancing the titanic depth. Drink or hold. 100/100

James Suckling zu 2023: This is mineral magic! Unbelievably concentrated, but also unbelievably elegant and refined on the medium-bodied palate, this defies easy description. As you swirl the glass the various aromatic dimensions of the wine—stone fruit, citrus, fresh herbs and chalk dust—reveal themselves one after another. Incredibly long, pure and stony at the mind-blowing finish. Drink from release. 100/100

Robert Parker zu 2019: Grown only 200 meters away from the old-vines Morstein, the 2019 Abts E(rde) Riesling GG combines perfect fruit ripeness with delicate concentration as well as notes of chalk, flint and iron. There is a similarity to both Kirchspiel (minty, herbal and chalky notes) and Morstein (transcendency), but this has unique ripeness and concentration of fruit, with shredded lemon rind and unique finesse. Round and juicy on the palate, this is a supple and intense yet delicate and silky Riesling with a firm structure built by very fine tannins and remarkably fine acidity. There is this slushy chalkiness combined with lemon oil typical for this terroir. The finish is highly intense and long. 99/100

Robert Parker zu 2023: From the Abtserde plot within the Brunnenhäuschen site in Westhofen, the 2023 Abts E Riesling GG is incredibly pure, deep and intense on the nose that is concentrated and chalky, with saline and lemony notes. Full-bodied, pure, fresh and saline on the palate, this is a highly complex and tight Riesling with a very intense, aromatic and structured finish. A great Riesling! Tasted as a sample in May this year. 98-100/100

Jancis Robinson zu 2019: Although the Abts E gets out of the starting blocks with an assertive herbaceous fragrance, further airing reveals gentle floral nuances and a potpourri of garden herbs with oregano and marjoram the most recognisable ones. On the palate the herbal expression is quite concentrated, yet at the same time fairly soft and complemented by just a smidgeon of aniseed. A deliciously salty tang adds further sensory delight. Gentle, cool and elegant. 19/20

Jancis Robinson zu 2021: Cask sample. A hint of smoky reduction gives way to intense, stony grapefruit. Rocky minerality has a paradoxical stony ‘darkness’ to it even though the wine is bright with high acidity. As it opens, there’s a more exotic note of honeysuckle, pointing to the aromatic character of these Keller 2021s. Super-intense, bone dry, but the fruit is incredibly concentrated. This is so embryonic that it is hard to describe now. A wine with a long future that needs patience. You could drink it earlier than I have suggested but you would be missing out on all that it has to give. 19/20