Keller Abts-E Riesling 2010 & 2011

Robert Parker zu 2010: As Keller himself remarks, his 2010 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen - Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs illustrates the proclivity of Riesling from this amazing site (for more about which, consult Issues 192 and 185) to combine creaminess of texture with utmost energy and levity. Almond and white peach, lime and grapefruit are wreathed in iris, mint, and thyme. As this expansively saturates the palate and as it takes on air, suggestions of cardamom and nutmeg, nut oils and rowan add rich allure. Seductively scented and textured, irresistibly juicy and mouthwateringly saline, this buoyant beauty finishes transparent to a kaleidoscopic, kinetic array of floral, herbal, spice and mineral nuances. I expect it will remain compellingly exhilarating for at least a decade. (Due to the paucity of the 2010 crop, Keller essayed no separate bottling from this site’s young vines as there had been from 2009.) 96/100

Robert Parker zu 2011: The initial impression garnered from Keller's 2011 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen - Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs is somewhat severe and tight, but it rapidly opens with airing and warmth to reveal a dynamic interaction of deeply-etched, predominantly piquant scents and flavors: boxwood and rosemary; rowan, buddleia and heliotrope; apple and white peach with prominent pip and pit; grapefruit and kumquat with prominent zest; stone, salt, struck flint, and alkali. There's such energy and grip in the finish you think your mouth can't contain it! Yet there is at the same time a billowing, wafting sense of what can only be called capital "E" elegance. This remarkable wine should be enthralling to follow over the coming decade and beyond, and a bottle that had been open for a day was even more compelling than one freshly-opened. 96/100

Jancis Robinson zu 2010: This was a real treat, but is still a baby. Wonderfully complex ripe fruit but still crystalline acidity. It touches gold medal quality! But great patience is needed. 19/20

Jancis Robinson zu 2011: Pale lemon yellow. Quite open and floral on the nose. Then delicate and flirtatious on the palate. Great balance and already quite mouthfilling. Ethereal. Quite a kick on the end. Then a dry finish. Gets the saliva flowing. 18/20