Chateau La Mission Haut Brion Cru Classe 1989

Parker: Both La Mission-Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion hit home runs in this vintage, which did not produce as many profound wines as the Bordeaux publicity machine suggested. 1989, the 200th anniversary of the French revolution, was an incredibly hot year (surpassed only by 1990 and 2003). Even from barrel the seamless 1989 La Mission revealed a special elixir aspect, tasting like it had been designed by Chanel. It still possesses a blue/purple color with only a hint of garnet creeping in, and the explosive aromatics offer up notes of licorice, creme de cassis, blueberry liqueur, smoky barbecue meats, truffles and graphite. If that’s not enough to get one salivating, the palate has never disappointed either. Full-bodied with extraordinary opulence as well as sweet, well-integrated, velvety tannins, this fresh, lively, blockbuster La Mission appears to be one of those rare wines that never goes through a closed, unfriendly stage. It has been a compelling, multidimensional effort from barrel, in its infancy, and as it heads into late adolescence. A remarkable tour de force in winemaking, it is one of the all-time profound La Mission-Haut-Brions. Anticipated maturity: now-2050. 100/100

Jane Anson: La Mission 1989 takes its time, pulls you in with softly charred peony and iris floral aromatics but doesn’t give everything away immediately. Once it has been coaxed open in the glass, liquid magic pours out, going toe to toe with the iconic 1989 Haut-Brion. Think lashings of liqourice, olive tapenade, pomegranate, crushed roses, tobacco leaf and cigar box, with cumin spice gripping on to the finish, speaking to the heat of the year. Last tasted in 2019 and it feels like it is continuing to climb towards peak drinking, still powerful and luscious. This vintage came two years after the Cru Classé de Graves appellation had come into existence, and one year after Jean-Philippe Masclef joined as technical director, Jean Portal cellar master, Jean-Bernard Delmas estate director. A stone cold delight. 100/100