Robert Weil Gräfenberg Riesling GG Vertikale (2013-2019)(7 Fl.)

Falstaff zu 2019: Dezente Mineralnoten, blumig, Orangenschale, komplex, aber noch unentfaltet. Im Mund geradezu adstringierend dicht, eindringlich taktilmineralisch, ein fast schmerzhaft dichtes Extraktpaket auf geschmeidig-süßem Fond, mit knackiger Säure und makelloser Balance. 97/100

Falstaff zu 2013: Aristokratischer Stil. Balanciert, vielschichtig. Pfirsich, Quitte, Pampelmuse, Orangeat. Mineralisch. Feiner Schmelz, vibrierende Säure. Baut Spannungsbogen bis ins Finale auf. Wahrlich ein großes Gewächs. 95/100

Falstaff zu 2015: Verschlossen mineralisch, schieferwürzig, getrocknete ­Zitronenschale, weich im Ansatz, dann aber auch Phenole, ­sogar grüne Komponenten, vital in der Säure, immens mineralisch, hat eine Urkraft, und das mit Anlagen zu Reichtum und Fülle, momentan im Tiefschlaf. 95/100

Falstaff zu 2016: Mineralisch mit deutlicher Schieferwürze, noch verschlossen. Im Antrunk sehr aufgeräumt, bis er sich immer mehr öffnet. Agile Säure, leuchtend und klar, dazu massive Mineralik mit druckvollem Bass. Große Anlagen mit Ausblick auf eine reiche Zukunft. 94/100

Falstaff zu 2017: Reifer Pfirsich in der Nase, auch kräuterig und dezente malzige Note, druckvoller Gaumen mit Kraft und Spannung, selbst­­­­­bewusster Auftritt, klare und feste Kontur, gute Dichte und Länge. 94/100

Falstaff zu 2018: Hefe und Neuholz, würzig: Assampfeffer, etwas Pfirsichkern, nussige Noten. Im Mund mit makelloser Balance: dabei kein massiver Bau, eher ein mittelgewichtiger, aber das mit mineralischem Hintergrund, Saftigkeit und nobler Adstringenz im Extraktkern. 94/100

Falstaff zu 2014: Gleichfalls tiefgründiges wie hermetisch abgeschlossenes Bukett aus Beifuß und Oregano. Lauernde Frucht mit einer Ahnung von Pfirsich, Reineclaude und frischer Ananas. Enorm saftig, salzig-mineralisch. Strenger Säurezug auf großer Fahrt. 92/100

Jancis Robinson zu 2014: There is certainly something different about the nose of the Gräfenberg. The aromas that stand out in the 2014 vintage are a pure and almost spirity concentration of fruit and a distinctively fumy mineral fragrance. The palate shows the classic Rheingau peach fruit in all its glory; crunchy, juicy and aromatic. To deliver acidity as perfect as this, the grapes would have been picked à point, and all of it is needed to balance the full body and creamy-waxy texture. Maybe the perception of a sweet note of fine cocoa was a figment of my imagination, but not the dusty stony mineral touch on the very long finish. 18,5/20

Jancis Robinson zu 2017: I tasted Weil's whole collection from the 2017 vintage and every wine was a winner, including this Grosses Gewächs. Despite its generous exhibition of fruit, it still manages to keep well-defined contours courtesy of an invigorating acidity. Possesses great structure and elegance. 18,5/20

Jancis Robinson zu 2018: I have not been able to detect a chink in the armour of this magnificent estate for a long time, and the 2018 Gräfenberg Grosses Gewächs, although different, is as good as any of its predecessors. In the hot season of 2018 the right approach has been found to keep the wine still cool and fresh, avoiding exotic excesses as well as surplus muscle. Although peach and apricot show a generous fleshy character, the body remains taut and the acidity animating. Spice and minerality have as much input as fruit, a tasteful phenolic touch adds backbone. 18,5/20

Jancis Robinson zu 2013: I was only ever once disappointed by the Gräfenberg and that was in 2010. 2013 was an equally challenging vintage, but this time round there is a lot more ripeness and substance. Intense fruit aromas and waxy honey make for a very promising beginning, and this first impression is backed up by a full body, creamy texture and juicy stone fruit on the palate. The well-pitched animating acidity contributes to an excellent structure, and the customary dash of minerality is not missing. It also appears a little drier than it used to be, an improvement in my book. 18/20

Jancis Robinson zu 2016: More open and developed than most of the 2016s in this Riesling Night line-up, showing some tertiary creaminess as well as the spicy citrus. Tight, bright with orange zest. Good length but perhaps only moderate intensity on the mid palate. Makes up for it with mouth-watering persistence. 17,5/20

Jancis Robinson zu 2019: Hello honey! Hello also to mango, ripe apple and lime. Dry, linear, precise and punchy. There's plenty of weight on the palate, and thickly layered fruit. Finishes with slaty complexity. 17/20

Jancis Robinson zu 2015: Full bottle all of 1,494 g. Mature, mildly floral Riesling nose but rather lacking fruit on the palate. The high acidity I noted when tasting it on release in 2016 is still there. Surely I'm not drinking it too young? I fear the acidity always trumped the fruit since surely a GG should be drinking well at nine, nearly 10, years old? I could imagine this coming into its own with goat's cheese but without food it's a bit demandingly austere. 16/20