Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera 2006 (2 Fl.)

Parker: Grasso’s 2006 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera is laced with racy, perfumed red fruit, flowers and minerals. The wine gains weight and depth in the glass as its energy and vibrancy take center stage. This is a supremely beautiful Barolo where expressive aromatics, generous fruit and silky tannins come together with unusual grace and elegance. Sweet, floral notes add a sense of lift on the finish. The 2006 is the best Gavarini since the 1989, and who knows if one day it might not match that legendary Barolo. Readers won’t want to miss the sublime 2006 Gavarini Vigna Chiniera. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. I was deeply impressed with the Barolos I tasted this year from Elio and Gianluca Grasso. This is an important vintage for the Grasso family, and readers will want to get their hands on these exceptionally pure, beautiful wines before they disappear. In discussing their 2006s, many producers draw comparisons with their 1989s. This is one of the cases where such a comparison seems fitting. Speaking of which, readers may want to take a look at my notes on Grasso’s 1989s (and 1990s, too) in my “What About Now” feature in this issue. Grasso farms three vineyards in Monforte; Ginestra, Gavarini and Runcot, all of which have their own unique qualities. Harvest times can vary as much as 7-10 days from parcel to parcel. The Barolos are fermented using the traditional submerged cap method and see a full month of maceration on the skins. Malolactic fermentation is done in steel, and the wines are subsequently aged in cask. Despite all of their success, Elio, Marina, Gianluca and Francesca Grasso, along with their cellarmaster Enrico Marchisio, remain some of the most unassuming, humble and classy people readers will meet in Piedmont. 95/100