Clos de Tart Grand Cru 1996

Decanter: Still deep in colour, with elegant, pure scents more dominated now by refined spice, mushroom and violet than fruit. On the palate, the wine seemed high-cheek-boned and dramatic compared to the affably generous 2007. Acidity does the main structuring work here, but it is ripe, resonant, well-seasoned acidity and this willowy wine remains well-composed and scented to the finish. 91/100

Jancis Robinson: Shaded ruby – paler than the 1999. Heady mushroom aromas. Utterly hedonistic with great freshness and a hugely subtle, long finish. Utterly gorgeous. Just a hint of brown sugar – in a magical way. 19/20