Chateau Mouton Rothschild Jahrgangs Vertikale (1986-1989)(4 Fl.)

Robert Parker zu 1986: The 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot that was picked from 2 October until 16 October. Winemaker Philippe Dhalluin, who was not working at the property back then, told me that the pH was fairly low at 3.54 when it is usually around 3.75, due to the natural tartaric acid in the vines. It has a powerful and intense bouquet as always: exemplary graphite and cedar scents, a touch of black pepper and incense. It seems to unfurl in the glass, like a motor revving its engine. The palate is beautifully balanced with its trademark firm tannic structure, a Mouton-Rothschild with backbone and masculinity. Layers of black fruit intermingling with mint and graphite, a hint of licorice emanating from the Merlot, gently fanning out and my God, it is incredibly long. It is not like the 1985 Mouton-Rothschild that is so fleshy and generous. This is serious, aristocratic Mouton, a true vin de garde and yes, I do think drinkers will have to wait until it reaches its true peak. Sometimes that's just the way it is. 100/100

Falstaff zu 1986: Kräftiges Karmingranat, breiter Ockerrand, Orangereflexe. In der Nase attraktive dunkle Beerenfrucht, tabakig, Nuancen von Trockenkräutern, etwas Nougat, reife Kirschenfrucht, feine Edelholzwürze. Am Gaumen feste Tannine, Anklänge von Brombeerkonfit und dunklem Nougat, wirkt süß und opulent im Kern, mineralisch, tabakige Nuancen, sehr gute Länge, frisch und anhaltend, salziger Nachhall, hat seinen ersten richtigen Trinkhöhepunkt erreicht, sicheres weiteres Reifepotenzial. 98/100

Robert Parker zu 1989: Tasted from magnum and presented by Baron Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, the 1989 Château Mouton-Rothschild might not reach the ethereal heights of the 1982 or 1986, but it is certainly a lovely Claret. It has an attractive, slightly leafy bouquet armed with cedar and pencil lead. There is less fruit concentration than I expected, resolutely classic, slightly austere Bordeaux. The palate follows suit. What it lacks in substance it compensates with in balance and personality. This is an understated Mouton-Rothschild that is probably at its peak, although I envisage this offering another two decades of pleasure. Whilst this showing did not replicate some glorious bottles in the past, it remains a very fine Claret that may not be inclined to improve any further. 93/100

Falstaff zu 1988: Dunkles Rubingranat, sehr gute Farbtiefe, violette Reflexe, zarter Wasserrand. In der Nase feines Unterholz, balsamisch, zarte Trüffelnote, am Gaumen elegant, samtige Textur, sehr elegant, fein verwoben, mittlere Länge, nahtlos, delikate Frucht, feines Schokotannin im Finish, frische rotbeerige Anklänge im Abgang. Recht ident 2006: Fein schokoladig, trüffelige Nuancen, dunkle Beerenfrucht, etwas Vanille. Am Gaumen rassig und frisch, kernige, feste Tannine, hat eine sehr gute Struktur, mineralische Substanz, präziser Stil. 90/100