Bonneau du Matray Corton-Charlemagne 1998

Falstaff: Hellgolden. Ein Hauch Heidehonig, malzig, fast ein Anflug von Premox, der sich aber im Glas eher verliert. Apfel, etwas Kräuterbonbon, Lakritze. Mit Luft auch Pfirsich. Schließlich fast trüffelig. Seidiger Ansatz, feste Säure, buttrige Geschmeidigkeit in der Gaumenmitte, stoffig im Übergang zum Abgang, mineralisch-festes Fundament. Ein feister, robuster Jahrgangstyp. In Komplexität und Länge allerdings nur mittelgewichtig. 93/100

Wine Spectator: Vibrant. Clean and lively, with lovely midpalate concentration, this medium- to full-bodied white Burgundy is straight as an arrow. Fabulous balance of subtle toasted oak and ripe fruit. 93/100

Robert Parker: Unlike his colleagues in Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, de la Moriniere did not have any frost or hail damage (and only traces of oidium) in 1998. However, the famed Corton hill, on which is located Corton-Charlemagne, was not spared nature's wrath. The searing sun and heat of August burnt a significant percentage of the grapes, so de la Moriniere was compelled "to sort like crazy". While he wishes he could have harvested earlier, my impression is that his 1998 Corton-Charlemagne benefitted from the extra hang time by gaining richness, breadth, opulence, and riper acidities. Its delightful tropical fruit (pineapple and passion fruit) and spiced apple aromas lead to its velvety-textured, medium-bodied personality. This is a harmonious 1998, without any of the angular acid and tart aspects that typify so many of this difficult vintage's efforts. Its long seamless finish, and dense, fruit-packed character are outstanding. 91/100