Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1985

Decanter: Celebrated, elegant and ageworthy, the 1985 vintage was extreme in Tuscany, with a particularly hard winter and very hot summer. The main character of this vintage is to show an extremely youthful fruit character, and this Brunello does not disappoint. The bottle was topped up twice; in 2000 and in 2010. There is great concentration here and the wine changes a lot in the glass. The frame of the aromas is built on dried prunes, Mediterranean herbs and tobacco, with truffle, cinnamon, potpourri, cedar wood and earthy tones. The stunning savouriness of the nose is confirmed on the palate, with zesty acidity in a perfect Franco Biondi Santi style, powdery, super-extracted tannins, big shoulders and fierce tension on the finish. An extremely youthful wine with further potential for ageing. 99/100 (2022)

Jancis Robinson: The fruit for the Riserva comes exclusively from the oldest vines at the estate. Aged in Slavonian oak for three years. La Storica refers to bottlings aged in the winery cellar for later release. Considered a great vintage at the estate, from a riper vintage. The colour is remarkably similar to the younger wines in this Biondi-Santi vertical. Mid garnet with a sweet nose of cherry, liquorice, incense and kirsch. The palate has the same succulent fruit but matches this with grippy, pithy tannins, cigar and an almost iron-like stony quality. Blood orange and white pepper emerge with time in the glass. This continues to open up with air but retains such an impressive fruit drive. Sinewy and very long on the finish. 18/20 (2022)