Anne Gros Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Le Grand Paupertui 2020

Decanter: As always, this is a knock-out. Produced from the 80-year-old vines in the Grand Maupertuis section of the clos, this is perennially at the top of my list in the Clos de Vougeot. Aged in one-third new casks using barrels from Damy, François Frères and Ermitage-Berthomieu, the result is balanced and elegant, with a well-integrated smoky, spicy character, and impressive of purity of fruit that lasts through the lingering finish. 96/100 (2021)

Jancis Robinson: Donated by Bertrand Leulliette of US importer Bertrand's Wines. Anne Gros is one of no fewer than 13 members of the Gros family in the index of Jasper Morris's Inside Burgundy, and the 13 don't even include Anne's children Julie and Paul, who are now working at the domaine. (Paul now also has his own wine label and is making quite distinctive new-generation burgundies.) The domaine owns nearly 1 ha in the best part of this enormous, 51-ha, vineyard, the upper, south-facing part. 2020 was hot and, especially, dry. Some wines were a bit too much but the Gros women have a delicate touch. Deep garnet with some shading at the rim. An assertive nose of firm, ripe mulberries with a mineral streak on the nose. Sweet palate entry and then velvety tannins. The sort of spine and conviction of its maker. Very long. Savoury notes take over towards the end and the fruit is strong enough to counteract the considerable charge of ripe tannins. 18/20 (2024)