Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs 2010

Parker: Finishing at a mere 12.4% alcohol even though not picked until mid-November, Keller’s 2010 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewachs smells of apple, pear, and white peach garlanded in hedge flowers and thyme, which come onto the palate expansively, generously juicy and persistently perfumed for a performance of vivacity and levity that finishes with wafting, glowing persistence, subtly bitter suggestions of fruit pit and pip adding invigorating counterpoint. This is to be sure less dense or mineral in flavor than the corresponding Kirchspiel (which comes from some of Keller’s oldest vines) but how much more winsome and (to this taster at least) psychically uplifting! 92/100