Knipser Spätburgunder Rdp 2009

Parker: The Knipsers' 2009 Spatburgunder trocken RdP (i.e. "Reserve du Patron") gives the sweetest expression of dark berry ripeness found in any of their wines that I have thus far tasted, though I'm prepared to concede that it stops short of jammy (see comments from Volker Knipser quoted in my introduction to the present collection). Lightly cooked cinnamon-, nutmeg-, toasted almond- and vanilla-tinged blackberry and elderberry inform a lush, velvet-textured palate, but where there was some thickening, coarsening and drying in the corresponding "Reserve" bottling, here we have welcome clarity and persistent juiciness, with a decidedly chalky note showing-through and serving to help set off the wine's deep ripeness and spice.