Klaus Peter Keller Riesling Abtserde GG 2011

Lobenberg: Die Abtserde steht komplett auf Kalkstein, es gibt keine Lehm- oder Lössauflage, alles heller Boden hier ohne Eisen wie im benachbarten Brunnenhäuschen, extrem karg. Demzufolge ist die Nase weniger saftig als die der anderen großen Gewächse, schierer, puristischer. Zitronengras, Zitrone, Pampelmuse, Salz und Kalkstein. Ziemlich druckvoll, rassig und spannungsgeladen auch im Mund, ein echter Purist. Grandios mineralisches Spiel, Salz und Stein, grüner Apfel, grüne Birne, weißer Pfirsich, viel Salz im Nachhall. Puristisch und groß. Weniger als 13 Prozent Alkohol, also ultraschlank und puristisch. 100/100

Parker: The initial impression garnered from Keller's 2011 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen - Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs is somewhat severe and tight, but it rapidly opens with airing and warmth to reveal a dynamic interaction of deeply-etched, predominantly piquant scents and flavors: boxwood and rosemary; rowan, buddleia and heliotrope; apple and white peach with prominent pip and pit; grapefruit and kumquat with prominent zest; stone, salt, struck flint, and alkali. There's such energy and grip in the finish you think your mouth can't contain it! Yet there is at the same time a billowing, wafting sense of what can only be called capital "E" elegance. This remarkable wine should be enthralling to follow over the coming decade and beyond, and a bottle that had been open for a day was even more compelling than one freshly-opened. 96/100

Galloni: Riding shotgun, the 2011 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs is a completely different wine. This is razor-sharp on the Zen-like nose of Granny Smith apples, struck flint notes and citrus peel; you could almost describe it as uncompromising. The palate has a citric spine and tastes quite saline, with hints of orange peel. Harmonious, penetrating and ethereal, this is a brilliant Riesling from Keller, but one that you have to meet on its own terms. 96/100